Refuges and times of climbing

4.000 m . Refuge "Ejército de los Andes" Destroyed by avalanches.
4.230 m. Refuge "Plaza de Mulas" (Sección Exploradores Baqueanos) Capacity 6 to 8 persons. There is water. Hotel/Refuge
5.300 m. Refuge "Antartida Argentina" Capacity 3 persons. Destroyed
5.700 m. Refuges "Plantamura" and "Libertad" Capacity 3 to 4 persons everyone.
5.700 m. Refuge " Berlin". - 6.500 m. Refuge "Independencia". Capacity 3 to 4 persons. (The highest refuge in the world). Half in ruins.

Heights and kins of terrain

* Mendoza . 735 m. Capital or the Mendoza¨s Province. Supermarkets. Place for obtain the permits
* LOS PUQUIOS. Mule renting for load transportation. Camping space (across the Andean Climbers' Cementery, 1 km before Puente del Inca, on the international highway from Mendoza). Bus stop. Equipments store
* Puente del Inca. 2.730 m. Deep pass, roads, police station, post office, international telephones and so on. There is an inn.
* Laguna Horcones. 2.900 m. Lagoon and ice moraines. Park rangers control - Confluencia. 3.400 m . Deep pass, animal's path.
* Plaza de Mulas Superior. 4.230 m. Ice moraines, paths. Place for Camp. Aconcagua Trek Base Camp services (food, equipment store, mules, radiocomunnication, etc)
* Portezuelo "Manso". 5.200 m. Alluvium
* Refuge "Antirtida Argentina". 5.300 m. Alluvium. paths.
* Refuges 5.700 m. Rocks, signs of snow.
* Refuge 6.500 m. Rocks and snow.
* Peñón Martfnez. 6.550 m. Rocks.
* Final channel. 6.600 m. Great stones
* South Top. 6.900 m. Rocky passages, ice, snow.
* North Top. 6.959 m. Rocky, a Christian cross marks this point and an Argentine flag takes care of it. THIS IS THE TOP OF AMERICA.

Due to the fact that the refuges were established a long time ago, when the number of expeditions was reduced, many of them have been left out of use. During the climbing season there could be various expeditions operating in the region. So you must consider it necessary to have good tents for the base camp and the height ones too. The tents must be low and resistant because of the storms.

Periods of climbing

Generally from December to March. Experience indicates that, if the "peak" months are the coldest, its climate is more stable. It would be good to calculate correctly the time you have available, including some days of "reserve" to wait for good weather in case of storms. A "bonnet of smoke", white wind over Aconcagua's top, is a sign of tempest in the heights and you must not go further on.

ACONCAGUA PROVINCIAL PARK

Back in 1983 the whole Aconcagua area and nearby summits became under the protection of government legislation declaring it a natural reserve. At present the different proceedings are being managed by a Permanent Council.

References

* Aconcagua - Argentina (Magnani - Parra)
* Historia del Aconcagua de Punzi De Biasey and Valentin Julián Ugarte.
* Notes of Club Andinista Mendoza.
* Notes of Asociación Mendocina de Acitvidades de Montaña. Personal experience.
* Practical Guide and Routes of Ascension to mount Aconcagua (First Edition 1976 - Second Edition 1985)
* Nieves y Glaciares de Chile, Luis Lliboutry.
* L'Aconcagua non ha voluto. de Mario Fantin.
* Dra. Ana Maria Palacios and Dr. Sergio Saracco.

Whith this little and practical guide, I wish to join all the mountaineers who visit this zone and I do hope it will be profitable for them. This is the reason why I did it. As a sportman I hope to return a little bit of all sport gave to me and I specially dedicate this work to my friend the Coronel Valentin Julian Ugarte.